Grimpez sur mon scooter pour un road trip sur la boucle de Mae Hong Son, dans le nord-ouest de la Thaïlande.
Pas de plages paradisiaques, mais une région thaïlandaise bien plus authentique, loin des touristes, à la rencontre d’une population souriante et particulièrement accueillante.
Départ du road trip à Chiang Mai
Le point de départ de ce road trip en scooter sur la boucle Mae Hong Son est l’incontournable Chiang Mai, surnommée la « rose du nord ».
Chiang Mai, avec son million d’habitants, est la deuxième plus grande agglomération du pays après Bangkok. Destination la plus touristique du nord de la Thaïlande, elle est à des années-lumière de l’effervescence de la capitale, j’en veux pour exemple qu’ici, on ne klaxonne pas !
Ancienne capitale du royaume de Lanna et à la porte du Triangle d’Or, où se rejoignent Thaïlande, Laos et Birmanie, cette cité en plein essor sait parfaitement mettre en avant son riche héritage historique. J’y passe deux jours et ce n’est pas de trop pour découvrir ses superbes temples (on en dénombre plus de 300), sa vieille ville de forme carrée et entourée de fortifications en briques, symboles de sa grandeur passée, ses marchés pleins de vie et ses cafés sympas.
J’adore déambuler à l’intérieur de ces remparts, où d’habitude se concentrent les touristes (c’est beaucoup plus calme en ce moment en raison de la crise sanitaire mondiale, ce qui n’est pas pour me déplaire), et visiter quelques-uns des Wats (temples en thaï) bouddhistes avec un guide francophone, dont la beauté me subjugue.
Le marché nocturne du dimanche soir, installé au cœur de la vieille ville, est un passage obligatoire ici. Immense, il s’étale sur plus d’un kilomètre de la grande rue Ratchadamnoen à la porte Thapae East. On y trouve de l’artisanat, des sculptures, des vêtements, des parfums et des produits en tout genre à des prix imbattables. On y trouve aussi de nombreux stands de street food, où les influences birmanes, chinoises et indiennes s’invitent dans les assiettes.
À environ 10 kilomètres du centre-ville, je profite également du lac Huai Tueng Thao, un endroit très agréable presque exclusivement fréquenté par les locaux le dimanche. Le lieu n’étant pas touristique, peu de personnes parlent anglais et c’est ce qui fait aussi tout son charme.
Enfin, je termine par la visite de l’un des temples les plus sacrés du Nord, le Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, érigé sur la montagne (Doi en thaï) de Suthep, à 1 676 mètres d’altitude. Gravissant les 306 marches de l’escalier gardé par des nagas (les serpents à tête de dragon que l’on voit souvent en bas des temples), je me régale d’un superbe panorama sur Chiang Mai.
Première étape du road trip à Pai
Après ce riche séjour à Chiang Mai entre temples et Bouddhas, il est temps de démarrer cette boucle de Mae Hong Son qui fait plus de 800 kilomètres et qui va tout d’abord m’amener à Pai, la première étape.
Cette boucle permet de se plonger dans une campagne verdoyante en empruntant la célèbre route 1095 et ses 1864 virages ! Même pas peur !!! Surtout que j’adore cette liberté qu’offre le scooter d’aller là où je veux, quand je veux et aussi longtemps qu’il me plaît !
130 kilomètres plus tard, après 700 virages et près de quatre heures sur cette route sinueuse, dont une bonne partie sous la pluie (en scooter, hum…), j’arrive à Pai, un petit village de hippies perché dans les montagnes où la vie est douce, où le temps file tranquillement et où la nature est magnifique.
Pas de tuk-tuk, pas de brouhaha, pas de pollution, pas de Mc Do… C’est d’un calme et je confirme à 1000 % que la ville est vraiment relax. Clairement, J’ADORE !
J’y passe une journée et demie à visiter la ville et ses alentours. Au programme :
- le White Bouddha,
- le World War II Memorial Bridge,
- le canyon,
- le marché de nuit de Walking street,
- la cascade de Pam Bok,
- le Bamboo bridge,
- le Santichon Village,
- Et pour finir Yun Lai Viewpoint.
Mae Hong Son, la ville des trois brumes
Le matin du cinquième jour, toujours au guidon de mon fidèle destrier de 125 cc, je reprends la route afin d’effectuer les 109 kilomètres m’amenant à Mae Hong Son, tout en faisant une halte à Soppong pour la grotte de Tham Lod.
Par chance, le soleil m’accompagne dans mon périple de trois heures et je me régale vraiment tant cette route est superbe avec ses villages typiques, ses rizières à perte de vue et ses odeurs omniprésentes (fleur d’oranger, tiaré, frangipanier, pin, …).
Mae Hong Son, à la frontière avec la Birmanie, est la région la plus à l’ouest de la Thaïlande et représente à elle-seule près de 80 % de la surface boisée de tout le pays. « La ville des trois brumes », car les nuages la recouvrent très souvent, est restée isolée jusque dans les années 60 et c’est une des régions les moins développées touristiquement parlant.
Moi, ça me va très bien, car je ne suis pas là pour sympathiser avec les touristes (aucun rencontré depuis Pai), mais plutôt pour aller à la rencontre des ethnies et des tribus de cette région, notamment les tribus Karen, Shan, Akha et Lahu, qui ont maintenu leurs modes de vie et leurs traditions ancestrales intactes.
En raison de sa proximité avec la Birmanie, les influences de sa voisine offrent un beau métissage dans la population et sont très présentes dans la culture et la gastronomie. Au programme de ces deux jours : des temples, un pont en bambou, une cascade, une grotte, un magnifique village chinois, la rencontre avec des femmes girafes et le fameux marché de nuit local.
La paisible Mae Chaem
Pour l’avant-dernière étape de cette boucle, c’est la ville de Mae Chaem qui doit m’accueillir à 165 kilomètres de Mae Hong Son.
Pour y arriver, deux possibilités s’offrent à moi : la rallier directement, ce qui fait déjà un long parcours, ou bien faire un détour de 60 kilomètres supplémentaires pour aller admirer la cascade de Mae Surin et les champs de tournesols de Thung Bua Tong. Si vous me connaissez, vous savez quelle option remporte la mise ! Oui, je suis gourmande !
Ça grimpe sec, ça tourne énormément, mais quel bonheur de sillonner à travers ces champs de fleurs et ces rizières. Depuis le départ de la boucle, les multitudes de panoramas ne cessent de me couper le souffle !
J’arrive juste à temps à Mae Chaem pour voir le soleil se coucher, puis je file dîner dans un restaurant très sympa, le Mae Chaem Gate Restaurant, tenu par un Français m’invitant à poursuivre la soirée avec lui autour de quelques bières, content de voir une compatriote en ces temps de disette touristique.
Le décor est idyllique, car longeant la rivière Mae Pan et au pied du Doi Inthanon, le plus haut sommet du pays, Mae Chaem est entourée de petits parcs naturels et de rizières en terrasses. La bourgade est tranquille et vit de l’agriculture et de la production artisanale du Jok, une méthode de tissage typique de l’ethnie locale Hmong.
Retour à Chiang Mai et fin du road trip
Le lendemain, après la visite de quelques temples, il est temps de reprendre la route pour Chiang Mai sous un grand soleil et de « boucler la boucle », comme on dit ! Eh oui, le road trip se termine et c’est l’heure pour moi de retourner à Phuket, où le devoir et mes élèves m’appellent.
Sur le chemin, toujours avide de découvertes, je suis quand même obligé d’aller voir de plus près ce fameux Doi Inthanon et ses 2 565 mètres d’altitude. Un vrai dernier régal pour les yeux !
Je suis vraiment heureuse de cette première découverte thaïlandaise, car la semaine fut inoubliable. Je repars des étoiles pleins les yeux et le cœur rempli de souvenirs et de sentiments positifs ! J’espère sincèrement que, si vous venez en Thaïlande, cette boucle de Mae Hong Son fera partie de votre itinéraire.
À bientôt pour un autre road trip en scooter tout aussi riche et merci de m’avoir accompagné dans ce périple.
Si vous avez envie de découvrir la Thaïlande différemment et de bénéficier de mon expertise et de mes conseils, c’est le moment de télécharger mon guide de voyage gratuit en cliquant ici !
Virginie
Cet article a 156 commentaires
Ping : Road trip dans le Nord de l'Isaan, l'Est de la Thaïlande - Newlifesthai
Hâte de venir sur ton Scooter !! Ça donne grave envie✨✨🤩🤩🤩
Bravo et continue de nous faire voyager.
BaWaK
Bonjour Virginie, ton blog est super, que d’informations ….. tu as l’air si épanouie !! Je me posais une question, comment fais-tu pour te ravitailler en essence avec ton scooter ? Où trouves-tu ton carburant ? Car tu en fais des kilomètres….. n’as-tu jamais connu de déconvenues ? tu n’en parle jamais 🙂 il est vrai que tu es tellement positive ! 🤗
Mon mari et moi arrivons pour 1 mois à Bangkok fin décembre, et espérons nous régaler grâce aux nombreux sites que tu nous fais découvrir, merci encore pour ce magnifique partage et toutes tes connaissances. À bientôt pour de nouvelles aventures, je te souhaite plein de bonnes choses, tu es une sacrée gonzesse quand même 👍
Coucou Patricia
Merci pour ton message. Je trouve de l’essence en chemin il y a toujours une station quelque part. La règle d’or en Thailande quand même c’est à la moitié du réservoir faut faire le plein. Non aucune déconvenue c’est pour ça que je n’en parle pas car il ne m’est jamais rien arrivé en Thailande. Et pourtant 17000 kms seule en scooter dans tout le pays donc tout va bien 🙂
C’est trop bien si vous venez en décembre 🙂 si vous ne restez pas que sur Bangkok et si vous venez à Phuket ça me ferait plaisir de vous rencontrer !
A bientôt et merci pour la sacré gonzesse 🙂
Faut venir fraté 🙂
Ping : A la découverte de Krabi ! - Newlifesthai
Ping : Chiang Rai : les incontournables de votre séjour - Newlifesthai
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